Jungle

I have spent the last 3 days in the jungle. Well, I haven´t really seen jaguars, big spiders, snakes or monkeys... I suppose it is a tourist jungle.

Palenque, a beautiful Mayan site is located North of the state of Chiapas, in the middle of the jungle. The best place to stay is a complex of Cabañas and little huts spread around the forest called "El Pachan". It is a very chilled out and hippy place where reggae and Carribean music is played live at night and where travellers converge. The place is always dark as it is surrounded by tall and thick vegetation.


To get to your hut you need to walk through jungle-like trees and plants on illuminates wooden pathways. After 11pm, lights are out and it gets really tricky to reach your warm and humid bed. And when it is pouring down as it did last night it gets even more fun.


And what do you do from "El Pachan"? Well, you visit the ruins of Palenque and try to understand the Mayan way of life, why they were squizzing baby`s head for years to make them flatter, you walk through the jungle, learn about natural healing plants, climb trees (well, I do), swim in large waterfalls and try not to drink to much as it is the only thing to do at night.

My plan from here was to go to Tikal in Guatemala where everybody around says the Mayan ruins are wonderful. But the stupid ass that I am left his tourist card in Mexico city (in order not to loose it) so he cannot leave the country. How is that for organisation?

I am therefore taking a bus tonight for Tulum, a Carribean pardise.

San Juan de Chamula

In San Juan de Chamula an 'Indian' village a few kms away from San Cristobal de la Casas there is one church for 60,000 inhabitants. That is to say people are not devout catholics. Weddings, burials, births are all celebrated by the Mayan crosses planted in the various neighborhoods of the village and at home (population here is of full or predominant Maya descent). But then, why is there a church in the village?

From the outside, the church looks like a colourful little catholic church. But as you step in an unknown world opens up, a different period of time... a place you don´t quite understand.


The church is used by locals as a healing place. As you step in you discover dozens of people kneeling, crying, holding living chickens, you see candles everywhere on the floor, pine needles spread all around, a very strong smell of encens overpowers everything and you hear chickens and children playing. Male saints stand to the left, women saints to the right (yes, women saints.... not very catholic, is it?.

There is no priest in this church, but only ´curranderos´(healers) who cure people from spiritual and physical problems. To have an audience with a healer you need to make offerings to your saints, the healers or whoever (I did not quite understand everything). The items you must offer are the most surprising of it all: encens, pine needles, coca-cola or some other sweet drink (there is a huge coca-cola factory a few kms nearby), posh (a local alcoolic drink made out of sugarcane), eggs and living chickens. To cure you or understand your problem the healer takes your pulse and rubs your body with the eggs you brought.

It is all weird and difficult to understand in here. A shame it is strictly forbidden to take pictures.

After so much intensity I blew up a fuse and got married to Daniela in a village nearby as you can see below:

Chiapas and San Cristobal

2 days ago I was swimming with dolphins and turtles in the warm waters of Puerto Escondido (well, we were surrounded with dolphins on the boat we hired and I swam for 30 seconds with a turtle before it dived down). I am now in Chiapas, San Cristobal de las Casas, 2000m high, surrounded with luxurious montains...and it is freezing.

San Cristobal is very peculiar. There are loads of Indian people around selling artisanal clothes and stuff and living in the villages around. Don't even try to take a picture of them, they will refuse even if you ask first. Taking a picture of them is like stealing their souls apparently.

The town is as well very arty and revolutionary. You will all remember the Zapatista movement which took place here in 1994, with the objective to try and improve the condition of Indian people. Loads of shops sell 'Zapatista' artefacts, small theatres show political movies and documentaries... it is all very curious. Tonight I am off to see a documentary about the 'Zapatistas' and what they tried to do (without any success apparently). The town seems to have turned into a symbol of the liberation of poor people around the world, into an anti-war and maybe anti-globalisation city. I will post of few pix of the town in another post.

In the meantime I am leaving you with pix from the Canyon del Sumidero which I discovered this morning. It was all truly impressive and beautiful (and yes I know mum, I need to shave... but it is too cold to do that here, bathrooms are outside in my hostel and it is 4 degrees when I get up in the morning).

Backpacking

A couple with a strong American accent enters the room:
She - wow, there is no lock to this room.
He - oh well, I guess we know where to go if we need some cash or clothes.
She - ooooh, I am so cold.... hey, are we not supposed to be naked to do that?
He - well, we are not gonna get warmer if we take our clothes off.
She - so what do we do then?...... Oh shit, there is someone sleeping here!!!

A conversation in my dorm as I was having a nap. The joys of backpacking!

Oaxaca - Puerto Escondido

I am now chilling out on the Pacific Coast of Mexico. Puerto Escondido is chilled, too chilled to my liking at the moment. The high season starts in 2 weeks with an international surf competition and a fishing competition. In the meantime, it is quiet, quiet, quiet...zzzzzzzzzzz. My hostel is great with swimming pool and all but totally empty, there are 6 of us today. I spend my days on the beach, watching crappy surfers trying to stay on the board. I am too lazy to have a go, it is too hot.... Anyway, I am leaving tomorrow for San Cristobal De Las Casas where there should be a bit more action.

I have included below 2 pix from the beautiful town of Oaxaca, my previous stop.

Chapolines - Oaxaca

Returning from Mt Alban - another stunning set of ruins of a disappeared civilisation - we all felt hungry. Before lunch, we decided that we had to try the local delicacy, chapulines. That is, friend grasshoppers with salt and lemon. Hummm, they look horrible and the trick is to close your eyes. I had 3. What a treat!!!

How to celebrate life

We arrived at 10pm. Outside the gates a multitude of stalls were selling tacos, tortillas, enchilladas, mescal, tequila, beers... the place was buzzing with life. What was going on on the other side of the wall? A concert? A political rally? Some sort of show?

We went in.

The place was buzzing even more. Hundreds of people of all ages, thousands of candles, flowers of all colours, musicians, kids playing... and tumbs. Tumbs covered with candles, flowers, food, drinks, skulls made out of sugar...


We were in the San Felipe cemetery, north of the city of Oaxaca. It was the second day of the ´day of the dead´celebrations. Families were following this old tradition dating back from pre-columbian times, where death was celebrated, not feared. On Nov. 1st Mexicans celebrate ´los niños muertos´ (the dead children), on Nov. 2nd they celebrate ´los adultos muertos´ (dead adults). To celebrate their lost ones families gather around the tumbs, cover them with flowers, candles and the food and drinks the dead person used to like (eating and drinking what has been left on the tumbs is know to have no taste as the souls come round at night and eat and drink what has been left for them). On the cemeteries people speak, meet, laugh, eat, drink and play music.


It is a happy celebration, not spooky or sad at all. In South Mexico and the Yucatan cemeteries come alive on Nov. 1st and 2nd (in the cemeteries near Cancun people get the bodies out of the graves to clean the bones, so that the souls see the clean body when they return). Villages (as we saw the previous day) celebrate with comparsas - brass bands and inhabitants dressed as dead people - dancing in the street and visiting one house after another. The whole village follows as well as the occasional tourist like me.


I changed my original route in order to attend these happy celebrations. It was great.